Friday, October 18, 2024

Rain, rain has gone away!

Today I feel I really have had an adventure and been an explorer - albeit a very tame explorer. 

I am a bit sunburnt or may be windburnt, quite tired and my knees are feeling grumpy! But I have had a fabulous day.

After Eggs Benni at a little Cafe in the deserted main street (a shock because it was so busy last night) I headed out of town to the Living Desert Sanctuary and Sculptures in the the  Desert pausing to check out some mining history. 


The Living Desert is a sanctuary enclosed by electric fencing to keep out the usual predators. It has walking trails and an arboretum and well labelled plants. 


The walking trails are rough - I chose the cultural trail - paved in parts but mostly natural pathway through the rock. It led uphill to rocky outcrops , with interpretative signs at sparse intervals and more frequently arrows pointing to the track. It was so easy to see how you could get lost! There's sparse foliage but the track disappears in the water run offs and the rock looks the same. Turn a corner and it may disappear! Track work using pavers is beginning on some  lower areas but it's mostly over bare rock or in places, old asphalt. 

At the start of the walk you are warned: water, hat, suitable footwear.  I took 500mls and drank almost all of it. The rain had left but the wind was very strong and thankfully cooling. Without it I wouldn't have enjoyed it.  My hat kept blowing off and I appreciated my sticks as I  climbed higher and then descended. I quickly needed that water!



      Story poles: the work of local students.


Mine site -  seriously deep hole goughed out of the rock. Modern geologists are stumped as to what the expectations were . Many miners dug holes like this in 1860s - 1880s around Broken Hill. 


Aboriginal quartz quarry used for cutting implements and tips of weapons. 

The 2.5k walk took me over an hour but there was so much to see and to contemplate. The tenacity and spirit of people entering the area for the first time for one! And the contrasts in environments with which I am familiar. I loved it but am grateful for the cool greens of Namadgi and our mountains. Probably wouldn't do much hiking here!
 Or only in winter!


             Looking out over the Desert.

Work began on the Desert Sculptures in 1993 transforming a nearby hilltop into an artwork of International standing and adding to the rich art and creative culture of Broken Hill.


There are 12 in all. This one is by an Aztec Indian artist from Mexico and is entitled "Under the Jaguar Sun".

Petrol! U-turn to the servo before heading to Silverton. 


Now this was an experience! Established in 1881 Silverton was a thriving mining area with substantial stone civic buildings, gaol, churches and in it's heyday 10 public houses. Many houses were relocated to Broken Hill on drays pulled by camels when the mining petered out. They are now heritage listed.

Only the Silverton pub remains but it is humming! I had lunch - first ham, cheese and pineapple toastie in years overseen by two donkeys. "Please don't feed the donkeys!" says a sign. 



It was featured in the film Mad Max and has capitalised on it ever since. The whole town, now pretty sparse was part of it. It
 is very quirky, full of "stuff", memorabilia,  odd sayings and some odd patrons. Who wears a top hat  with pyjamas in the middle of the day whilst sitting at the bar?



Silverton is also very full of creative people and there are a number of galleries. 


The museum,  gaol and bakery were closed but the pub never sleeps!

The donkeys of which there are 4, 2 emus, 4 horses, a camel and sundry other attractions wander around the town confined in the area by fences and cattle grids.



After the heavy raIn many creeks had risen quickly but just as quickly fallen leaving muddy evidence of the ferocity of the weather.

I drove through a numbe of floodways: my car now looks like it belongs out here!

I drove 5k beyond Silverton to Mundi Mundii lookout.  The words mean "waterholes" in the local aboriginal language. It's hard to believe looking at the rocky and barren landscape before you. But they are out there!

A lonely grave on top of the lookout - it's barely readable but someone remembered and left a flower!

What a day!
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